徒步第十二天 - 備戰    Day 44

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10月18日 Churi Ledar -> Thorung high camp (4780m)

今天 7:45am 起程,10:15am 到達 Thorung Phedi, 逗留一小時儲備能量,1pm 到達 4800米的Thorung high camp。

昨日溶了一天的雪,今天異常寒冷,起步時氣溫只有2度。一星期前覺得很討厭的太陽,今天曬得再猛烈也覺不夠。我穿了五層上衣、兩層褲子、兩雙羊毛襪,再加上徒步四個小時所產生的運動量,竟不夠讓我脫下那怕是最薄的衣服。這兩天Ange因之前的高原反應一直沒胃口吃東西,而我即剛好相反,食量與海拔同步上升,也不知是“反高反”的生理反應,還是純粹太冷需要大量食物轉化熱量。我還指望經過20天的艱苦徒步後身形會變瘦變fit,看我現在的食量,搞不好徒步完結後會發胖呢!

Thorung Phedi 及 high camp 結集了大量徒步客,這兩地是攀越那偉大5416米Thorung La Pass山口前的最後一站,加起來只有四家旅館。由於房間內太冷,所有住客都聚在飯堂裡,其實飯堂內也沒有任何取暖設備,不過幾十人擠在一起,人體熱氣交流,倒也起了一點取暖作用。

今天肩並肩擠在一起的以色列人、波蘭人、法國人、英國人... 將會是明天互相扶持過Thorung La Pass 的同路人... 走筆至此,往窗外一望... Holy...又飄雪了!我的天啊,我一不能忍受在這麼寒冷無取暖設備的環境下多住一天,二不能在高海拔大雪下徒步上升600米,我的體能意志己被多次推過極限了,總不成我還有潛能未被發揮出來吧?天啊...

費用:食+住:850盧比 (共US13.28)


Images captions (from top to bottom):

4. The Thorung Phedi high camp (altitude 4800m) is the last stop before attempting the Thorung La Pass at 5416m - the highest point of the trek. The protocol of getting through the pass is as follow:
- start walking at 4:30am, in pitch dark, ascend 600m in thin air condition
- arrive the pass before 9am when the fierce wind starts to pick up
- make a steep 1600m descend over icy rocks (the scariest part of the trek)
- arrive Muktinath (3800m) in the afternoon to rest the burning kneels and feet.

5. Lodging is simple at this altitude, mud brick room and wooden frame platform as beds. No heat/electricity/clean water. Toilet is about 30 freezing, slippery steps outside of the room. We pull the beds together hoping the proximity of human bodies can generate even the smallest bit of heat. No one is able to sleep in such environment with freezing temperature and low supply of oxygen, which makes getting up at 4am to start the walk a non-issue.