徒步第十天 - 雪行    Day 42

I went to bed the night before with my mind occupied by images from the movie "Seven years in Tibet" - Brad Pitt trekking in snow storms on the Tibetan Plateau. When I come back to consciousness the next morning, this is what I see...

I wasn't thrilled at all watching snow fall for the first time this season. "I am screwed!" I keep repeating these words to myself... Shouldn't have watch Brad Pitt last night... bad omen... Now I have to trek in WET snow WITHOUT a rain pant... and without proper heating/fuel/clothes, I am going to get a terrible cold and die of hypothermia....

From Manang, we walked in wet snow for 2 hours to reach this small village Ghungsang. Ghungsang is not a popular stop and because of the snow, only a handful of trekkers were staying. The guest house in the pix got 4 customers (the 4 people on the roof), our guest house had 7: mike, ange, penny, me, plus 3 Polish trekkers. Trapped in the dinning room for the whole afternoon waiting for the snow to subside, the 4 ex-commonwealth-ers and the 3 polish got acquainted. Though verbal communication was limited (the polish can speak little English), we had good time playing cards and "talking" about art!
Penny and Ange posed as Charlie's Angels...
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10月16日 Manang -> Ghunsang (3890m)

半夜裡行雷閃電,雖然山裡的雨多在天亮就停,但仍然很擔心雨後路滑。早上六時,Penny 出外小解,門一打開,她便大嚷:“Holy.... 下雪了!”我仍蜷縮在睡袋裡,一聽這消息,忍不住也大大“Holy”了一聲。起床看,只見地上已積了幾吋雪,向上望去,天空也不見了,只有白雪從茫茫虛空處灑下來。若在平時,車在近處、屋內生著火爐、水龍頭隨時都扭出熱水來的情況下,看見下雪還不興奮得立即跑出去拍照堆雪人扔雪球?只是今天人在尼泊爾喜瑪拉雅山區裡,上述文明設備盡皆缺乏。雪中徒步嗎?第一,我想也沒想過,根本就沒備上質優的防水褲;第二我素來畏寒怕熱,今趟連羽絨衣也沒帶上,睡袋雖說可抵零度環境,其實對我來說頂多也就抵個十度而已。山區裡的旅館缺電缺熱水,而房間只有蟑螂昆蟲而沒有暖氣設備,就算避雪不上路了,呆在一地也會冷壞啊!

九時,Lok 決定出發,在大雪中行兩個小時去下一站宿頭,希望雪停後能趕在別人前面去下一個大站,霸佔床位。這又是遇上天氣突變時徒步環線會出現的問題,就是床位供應緊張。遇上如今天的大雪,大家都不動身,床位無法賸空出來,於是造成瓶頸,大家都只好呆等,一旦天氣轉好,大家又一同搶著出發,爭快到下一站佔床位,海拔越高,住宿供應越少,在十月、十一月的徒步高峰期裡,簡直沒有緩衝餘地,每天差不多100%客滿。Lok 的打算沒錯,不過對我來說可真是個大大的挑戰。雖然今天只走兩個小時,也沒提升多少海拔高度,不過大雪下走路,一是衣褲濕透,雖然臨時在 Manang 以高價買了所謂的 "waterproof" 褲,到底冒牌貨不耐真正的壞天氣,而我那TNF的沖峰衣防寒防風的功能都比防水強,也就是說它的防水功能不太行。二是空氣乾寒,一呼一吸之間把寒氣帶進肺胸丹田易使身體受風寒,拿手帕蓋著口鼻吧,在高海拔上行走呼吸會變得困難。三是路滑,這點不用多說了,反正完成這次徒步後我是這軰子都不會在下雪時徒步了!

今天雖然舉步維艱,甚至立誓永不再在這種情況下行走,不過這兩小時的雪行真是畢生難忘。雪下得雖大,卻未至不見前路,近處的山體仍然清晰可見,四處的山坡都鋪滿白雪,叢枝垂著冰掛,遠處山坡蒙上薄薄一層雪芒,四外無聲,唯有自己沉重的呼吸震動著寂靜的環境。腳下是雪,身旁是雪,頭上是雪,遠近山坡是雪,人行在其中,就是行在白茫茫的天地中間,心思頓時被這潔淨的環境焠煉得敏感專注起來,身體雖然受罪,心靈卻彷彿得到更新。雅比斯的禱告不自覺地浮現腦海,於是我抬起頭,讓雪灑在臉上,輕輕唸誦:“甚願你(上帝)賜福與我,擴張我的境界,你的能力與我同在,保佑我不遭患難,不受艱苦。”唸了好幾遍,臉上不自禁堆出微笑,在茫茫天地間、在這一刻,似乎上帝真的在與我一起徒步了!

來到旅館,吃完午餐後我躲到廚房裡去,坐在火爐旁烘衣服、寫日記。偌大一間旅館,只靠一個女人打理,我在廚房坐了半個下午,看著她忙煽火、煮食、燒水、沖茶、洗碗、抹地;十分辛勤的婦女,才廿多歲,不過樣子像四十多。下午四時,天色開始清朗起來,我高興得一把抱住Penny,機乎喜極而泣,男生們(Mike, Lok, 及三個波蘭人)都到外邊幫忙剷雪,Penny 卻在一旁搞破壞,發動雪球戰,傾刻間歐美大戰爆發,英、德、波、加互發雪彈,只有我這個中國代表作了最聰明的事:躲到樓上雪彈射程以外,拿相機拍下他們的戰爭罪證,冷眼看著他們亂成一團。

勞動完畢,大家都熟絡起來,三個波蘭人是一對父子及一對老朋友。與他們溝通雖然十分困難,不過大家圍坐一桌,老板娘又在桌底燒起一盤炭火,暖烘烘地,談談說說,玩撲克,也是十分愉快的。

費用:食+住:585盧比,不防水的防水褲:500盧比 (共US16.95)