徒步第五天 - 路匪    Day 37

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10月11日 Danakyu -> Chame (2713m)

今天五時多起床,一睜眼就見到八千多米的 Manasula 雪峰,可謂漸入佳境,真真正正的步入喜瑪拉雅山了。8:15am出發,中午到達Chame。

開頭的一個小時是陡直的上坡路,還好剛睡足吃飽,爬上去不至於太過艱難。跟著的三個小時算是很輕鬆,沒有很多上下坡的路,大部份都是在深山裡行走,耳所聞唯風吹松濤、水流擊石、驢蹄雜杳,偶遇羊群擋路,又會聽到趕羊人叱喝及羊羔喚娘之聲。舉目四望,雪山為天際劃了一道界線,近山滿佈松杉樹林,山後偶而突出幾座尖銳的石山,灰褐色的山體把白色雪頂與蒼翠松林隔開,豐富了大自然的色彩。 有時停下來歇息,望向對面山坡,總會見到或大或小的飛瀑,又或銀練似的山溪,切開樹林,向下俯衝,與大江(Marshyangdi River)匯合。還有深山裡的村莊、幹農活的婦女,這些喜瑪拉雅山區裡的自然及人文風景,若非憑著自己雙腿辛辛苦苦地走進來,是看不到的。感於眼前風物,不禁 慶幸尼泊爾沒學中國把公路修到美景的旁邊,總算為天地保留了一片淨土。

今天唯一掃興的事情是遇上毛派攔路收保護費。來尼泊爾前已經打聽過毛派從去年開始正式進入國會(?),已經絕跡山區,那知今日還是遇上了,唔,難道他們在國會撈不到油水?他們在路口打橫放了一張板凳,把每個徒步客攔下,發一張英語的宣傳單張,mission statement 之類的宣言,說是籌募經費,為人民謀福利云云,憑君自由捐獻,Penny 聽說是自由奉獻,放下單張掉頭便走,嚇得Lok連連喚她回頭。最後我們乖乖地每人放下100盧比買路錢。這些攔路截劫的毛派,居然還給“被害者”發收據, 那些收據還是印刷品呢!不知能不能拿來扣稅?他們問我從那裡來時,我說“中國”,立即有人喃喃唸“毛澤東”的名字,手指比劃,表示他們都是Mao的追隨者,遇我是一家人,使我哭笑不得。Mao此人禍國殃民,不是東西,他們竟奉為祖師爺,不過現下在毛派眼皮底下,也只好點頭認同了。

費用:食+住:900盧比,厚抓絨上衣:375盧比,保護費:100盧比 (共US21.5)


Images captions (from top to bottom):

2. New guest houses are being constructed in the himalayas.

3. Penny crossing a wood bridge

4. broadband available in the himalayas? it depends how you define "broadband"...

5. i wanna sleep...

7. Lok called his uncle (brother of his father) "father"(the man on the right), I think it's a local way of addressing an uncle who is very close and dear. Lok's "father" is a carpenter, he built the guest house we are staying at (the one in this pix).

8. During the years when the Maoists were active in the mountain (~2000 to 2006), trekkers needed to pay the maoist Rs2000 to buy a safe pass. Since they got seats in the parliament in 2007, they toned down activities in the countries, but there are still occasional road blocks along the trek. We bumped into one and were required to "voluntarily" pay Rs100.

tried to talk my way out by saying I'm from China. They immediately became friendlier and start to mumble the world "Mao Ze Dong" (Mao Ze Dong is the dude who engineered the catastrophic cultural revolution in china in the 60's and 70's.) But the ideological connection between the two parties, maoist & the communist party in china, didn't exempt me from having to contribute. So here you see the receipt of my Rs100 "donation".