徒步第四天 - 棄伴    Day 36

There are several check post along the route set up by ACAP. Trekkers are required to sign in and show their trekking permits. Permit is to be obtained before the trek begins, it costs Rs2000 (US$31.25).
From left: Penny, Ange, Mike.

Penny is from New Zealand, she has been working in Frankfurt, Germany for the past 4 years as a English teacher. Her students are corporate employees. She is an experienced hiker and biker.

Ange is an English currently living in Wales. She is a professional outdoor sports woman. She works at a, you guess it, outdoor sport shop. She had been in Nepal once couple years ago doing a 5-day kayaking. This time, she brought ice axes and other apparatus, planning to do some climbing with her friends. The annapurna trek to her is just an easy past time while she waits for her friends' arrival.

Mike is not officially part of the gang, he treks solo, but being a friend of Penny, whom he met 2 weeks ago on a 5-day ride in India, he tags along occasionally during the low altitude walks. After he saves Ange from a severe HMS (high mountain sickness) attack few days later, he is with us most of the time. Since he walks fast, Lok often has him "run" ahead of us to reserve rooms in the next overnight place. Mike is a Canadian, he teaches physical education in Budapest, Hungary. The Annapurna Circuit trek is a piece of cake for him. He doesn't even use a pole.

So this gang consists of a Canadian, New Zealander, British, Hong Kong-ese. When fellow trekkers asked where we come from, we just say: "ex-Commonwealth".

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10月10日 Tal -> Danakyu (2360m)

7:45am 起步,膝傷一天一天癒合,加上山中歲月早睡早起,精神倒也旺健,連大便也是起床便去,除了肌肉脧痛,身體似乎比以前還好了些!今天雙杖並行,感覺好多了, Tal 至 Danakyu 一段路也不難走,沒有直上直下的陡坡,四個半小時便抵達今天的休整站 Danakyu。吃完中飯才下午一時多,體能強盛的Mike及專業戶外運動員Ange 就有點坐不住了。Mike反正是自己一個走,便決定不留此地,多走五小時去下一站Chame,又誘Ange跟他同行快走,這樣可以早兩天到 Manang,然後走一段 side trip 去 Tilicho Lake,前約需兩三天,回來剛好與我們在Manang會合。其實這三四天我總覺 Ange 對 Mike有點意思,Mike也不用多說Ange便決定丟下一路上算是她的buddy Penny先走一步。我暗忖,雖然Ange 跟 Penny 是到了Pokhara才認識,不過到底一路上常走在一起談天說笑的,算是成為好朋友吧,怎麼這樣容易就丟下正患感冒的同伴呢?甚至說要是在Manang (三天後)碰不上的話就乾脆到大環線終站(十六天後)才會合,然後她倆再一起走Annapurna Santuary。Penny會怎樣想呢?Mike與她一起從印度德里顛簸了數天來到Pokhara,現下一下子跟之後才認識的女孩跑了...嘿,我真是想太多了。其實我也有點不快,現在只剩下和Penny,互動有點怪怪的,之前我誰也不認識,人多點壓力沒那麼大嘛,真想不到在深山裡還有人際關係的問題!

Danakyu 面對著 Manasula峰,乃是天下十四座八千米的神峰之一,我與Penny住的房間窗口對著這座偉岸的雪山,不過下午至晚上一直在下雨,希望明早雲霧撥開時,能看到神聖的八千plus雪山吧!

現在要說一下我們的響導兼背夫Lok了。Lok是個family man,是山裡村落的人,家裡有妻子,一個四歲的兒子及四個月大的女兒。由於我走得慢,而Lok又是個很負責的響導,他一直都走在我身旁或背後,因此我得到很多與他談話的機會。Lok的英語說得不錯,原來他大學畢業,校裡唸的是地理與經濟,我取笑說你這個唸經濟會英語的大學生應該當個政客。他竟認真地說其 實是可以的,但一來他討厭加都的城市生活、人多污染厲害,二來想照顧山村裡的父母,於是唸完書後便回老家當Annapurna山區的響導,真是個孝順的兒子。當我問他妻兒狀況時,他竟說了一番連常常把"family values"放在嘴邊的美國政客也不如的話,他的道理其實很簡單,就是丈夫和妻子之間的關係最是要緊,比其他關係都重要,只要夫婦之間搞好了,孩子就不會有問題。原來Lok不單是個好兒子,還是個好丈夫、好父親呢!其實第一天開始我們就知道Lok是個很好的人,他當了十多年背夫,七年響導,山裡到處都有他的朋友,相由心生,他的樣子就很正直,玩撲克贏了就高興得像小孩子一樣,充滿赤子之心(其實在我們一行人中他最年輕,只有29歲)。行路時他常說:“看,多美麗的景色。”由衷之意溢於言表,是衷心的喜悅大自然。

晚飯時跟Lok說起幾年前尼泊爾國王全家被殺的事件,他說國民都愛那個老國王, 事發時他剛大學畢業,聽到消息後與同學一起上街示威,幾天吃不下嚥,難過得要命,現在的國王則是個壞蛋,太子更是個超級大混球,嫖賭飲吹無惡不作。政府又是一片混亂,連續兩次選舉都臨時被腰斬,國民怨聲載道。Lok說毛派(Maoist) 宣傳以人民為本,在比較貧困、例如山裡的地方有頗多支持者。我見Lok 言下有點認同毛派,便問他是否讚成毛派主張。Lok倒也坦白,直認不諱,毛派不是全都好,但很多主張還是不錯的。其實對Lok來說,支持毛派與他的利益有直接衝突。毛派橫行山區那幾年(約2000至2005),徒步遊客大幅減少,直接影響響導及背夫的生計,去年開始毛派不再在山區向徒步客索取“保護費” 了,Lok說遊客量立即大增,他的“生意”也連帶增加不少。因此我常聽到Lok的矛盾言辭,一邊痛恨毛派濫索保護費,一邊又認同他們的政見。看來每個國家的人民,都要面對政治問題與自身關懷之間的張力啊。

費用:食+住:890盧比 (共US13.9)