不堪回首月明中    Day 21

Jokhang Temple to Tibetans is like Haram (the Sacred Mosque in Mecca) to Muslims; it is their most sacred temple. This image shows the roof top of the temple.
Pilgrims gather in front of the main gate every morning before 8am in order to get in and make offerings when the gate opens at 8:15. I hid myself among the huge crowd one morning and got in without paying the US$10 entrance fee :). It was an exciting yet terrifying experience, as I was almost squeezed to suffocation, while at the same time trying to protect my camera and balance myself to avoid falling and get trampled on. It certainly felt in the middle of a riot or stampede when the temple gate opened!
mass prostration on the temple plaza
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9月25日 拉薩

今天是中秋節,給折騰了一整天。

起了過大早,混在藏民堆中偷偷進了大昭寺,雖然逃票成功,卻被擠得差點窒息。離開大昭寺後在八廓街買了幾把藏刀,打算郵寄回去。先去八廓街郵局,居然不受理,說國際郵包要去總局寄。於是我頭頂烈日走15分鐘去到總局,在悶熱又沒空調的環境下排了20分鐘隊後(其實沒甚麼隊可言,都是胡亂擠在一起而已),職員說海關已經下班吃飯,三小時後才再上班。我只好先回去八朗學,下午再來。中途吃了一碗四川擔擔麵,叮囑他們不要下辣,卻忘了四川還有一味叫“麻”!結果,那碗麻麵害得我拉了一天一夜的肚子!

下午四時再去郵局,用了足足一小時,過四關:買盒子9元,檢貨,打包1元,最後是寄 - 只能用海郵,到香港需1至2個月,郵費竟是貨物價值的一半!在沒有空調的環境下與人爭先恐後,肚子還一直在鬧。不過在郵局裡我倒見證了中國郵政一項很體貼民情的技倆,他們竟有一台衣車及專責操控衣車的職員,遇上包裹太大或形狀奇特,車工會把包裹袋撕開再縫合,總之即場就能交出一個剛好能包住包裹的袋子來!

離開郵局後去超市買上路的乾糧食水,提著20磅的東西坐公車再走路回八朗學時,不禁想到有男生同行的好處。

回房間後立刻直奔廁所一瀉千里,之後每個小時拉一次,中間偷空15分鐘去對面網吧發email, 然後又跑回八朗學繼續努力地拉...

一個自出生就用座廁的人要在公用蹲廁每小時拉一次稀屎,每次至少用上十分鐘,這個情況可說是極為悲慘了吧?不過今次我倒沒怎樣情緒低落,一來拉肚子嘛,總會有拉完的一天,既然第一次蹲拉成功,那就表示沒有不能拉的廁,技術只會越來越成熟嘛!二來行走江湖,切忌自憐,心理質素比生理狀況更需保持健康。於是拉著拉著,竟生出一點感恩的心來,起碼不是在路上拉!其實我寫這日記的當兒肚子還在鬧得凶,不過越寫越高興,也就沒所謂了。認識我的人都了解我挺喜歡說這回事,要不為了顧及一些不能忍受這個的讀者,我可真要說仔細點呢!呵呵呵! 唔...不行,又要上廁了...

宿:八郎學,40元單人間,公共廁浴


Additional information on Jokhang Temple:

Jokhang Temple was constructed around AD642 by Tibetan's legendary king Songsten Gampo (松贊干布), it houses the Jowo Sakyamuni statue (釋迦牟尼十二歲等身像), brought to Tibet by Songsten Gampo's 2nd wife princess Wencheng (文成公主) from China. The Jowo Sakyamuni statue was said to depict Buddha at the age of 12, it is one of a handful of Buddha statues made during his lifetime (more than 2000 years old). It is perhaps the single most venerated object in Tibetan Buddhism.