告別老鄉    Day 18

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9月22日 拉薩

早上遊巴士河直到北郊,看見半山有一寺,攀了三份之二的路程,發覺實在沒法再上了,只好下山,猛一回頭,竟看到整個拉薩河谷盡收眼底。下得山來去八廓街一帶逛逛,很有點感慨。大部份人對拉薩的想像大概都停留在100年前斯文赫定"東征"時候的模樣,再不濟也會看過幾年前拉薩的照片,那時拉薩還有藥王山,龍皇潭,八廓街的商店仍是老模樣。今天,藥王山頂蓋了座電視塔,不讓人上。繞山腳走了一圈,也沒看見以前照片中見到的經雕石刻或從事雕刻的工人,看來電視塔把他們一概掃地出門了。龍皇潭則本來是布達拉宮背後的一個湖,龍皇潭觀布宮倒影可說是拉薩一絕,誰知繞到布宮後面,見到的是個很普通的公園,裡面水是有的,不過卻給切割成小小的幾塊,叫做甚麼"宗角祿康"。至於八廓街,轉寺(大昭寺)的人沒少,不過沿路所有商店都掛上描紅繪綠蔪新的招牌,賣的貨式全部一樣,就是made in 義烏,世界旅遊記念品總匯編號"藏2034"的商品。唯一保留了點點舊時氣息的只有大昭寺東面的舊區,那裡窄巷迂迴,藏式樓房,還有一座清真寺,差點以為重遊喀什了!

對拉薩心存幻想,想來看看的朋友們,恕我說句掃興話:太遲了!

宿:八郎學,40元單人間,公共廁浴


Images captions (from top to bottom):

1. I got stuck in Lhasa for almost two weeks in September, partly because I was looking for new companion to travel to western Tibet, partly because I was struck by diarrhoea two times within a week.

I got quite bored roaming within the city so one day, in between the two diarrhoea, I took a bus heading north and got off at the northern edge of Lhasa. I walked pass a village where traditional Tibetan houses were still abundant, and came to a hill. I saw a temple half way up the hill, attracted by the non-tourist-off-the-beaten-track atmosphere, I started to climb. I didn't get to the temple (climbing at altitude 3700m is tough business), but when i looked back, i saw the rear of Potala palace and the entire Lhasa city. It was quite a stunning view.

3. I visited the "prostration" plaza of Jokhang Temple almost everyday of my stay in Lhasa. Among the pilgrims were all classes (told by how nice they dress) and ages. I caught this siblings taking a break from the prostration routine :)

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