乘車難    Day 5

 
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9月9日 芒康-邦達-八宿

芒康是個只有一條街的小鎮,卻是川藏公路及滇藏公路的匯合處,網上說找車子容易,誰知一大早到客運站,裡面已經擠滿了搭不上班車的人!原來芒康一天只發一班車去昌都,而那班車已經客滿。乘不上車的人大部份跟我們一樣,是要到邦達,再倒車去拉薩的。我實在不想留在芒康這麼一個啥也沒有的小地方,扭盡六壬,找人拼小面包車,求客運站加開一班車,同時四處尋找昨晚碰到的三個香港人及那瑞士老外,暗忖人多好說話嘛,誰知該死的四個人影也不見,不禁咒罵那三個同鄉好沒義氣,昨晚明明說好今天八點到車站找車去邦達,九點還不見人,肯定找到車走了!

一大群搭不上車的人吵了個多小時,一個師傅終於同意加開一班車,但要所有人都付全費132 元。去邦達不過一半路程多一點,平常就不過92元,這一下子我們四條省錢的驢就不願意了。師傅也可惡,要待我們把行李都塞進車裡,坐定了才“宣佈”這項新收費方案。我們四人商量一會,決定不坐這車了,下車拿回行李,準備在街上找包車去邦達。師傅也不緊不慢的,待我們拿了行李後向全車的人宣佈今天這趟車不開了,缺了四人,划算不來。這一下子車上本要趕去昌都的人都急了,他們跟我們說願意為我們付那多出來的40元。這一來我們倒覺不好意思,最後我們為了不耽誤大家行程,便讓去昌都的人為我們付一半,我們自己付另一半,於是最後的車費是92+20元!

從芒康到邦是沙石路,離開瀾滄江沿著玉曲江而行。路鋪得很好,但班車開得飛快,頗有香港小巴十分鐘內從中環飛到荃灣之風,因此感覺比之前那一段路更危險。不過這一程風光無限,大部份時間車走在海拔四千以上,高原草甸養得挺滋潤,牧區農區交互出現,有好幾處大山草甸簡直是“臥虎藏龍”裡,羅小虎與玉嬌龍相愛後山盟海誓的草原,我05年去新疆時以為能在天山深處見到這樣水草豐美的草原,誰知竟在西藏海拔四千的高原見到了!比起新疆,西藏的山水美多了!

到達邦達已是下午四時多,甫下車便有好幾輛小面包上來,說天黑之前就能趕到八宿。於是我們四人與同是坐那部加班班車另兩人拼在一起,算是包了一部小面包。一路上師傅也合作,我們要停車拍照他沒有不行的。在滇藏線走了這幾天,終於體會包車的好處。

邦達到八宿的路是很好的油柏路,翻過怒江後便向西沿著帕隆藏布江行。這一段路上可見兩山峽峙中一條時而凶湧時而溫婉的綠水流過,灣拐得狠時江中能見到不少旋渦,但有時山谷開闊,水就緩緩漫過谷原。西藏的大山大水,氣派是那兒都不能比的!

晚上住進我住過最差的招待所,與一起乘小面包的成都大姐同住一房。與大姐聊起來,原來她是第一代的驢呢!她十八歲開始遊山玩水,全國就只差海南島未去過,算得上是老遊條了。她四十多歲,在成都一家電子廠打工,有丈夫及一個十七歲的兒子。她說工作越來越受氣,要不是每年出來遊一個月,可真受不了老闆的烏氣,她說她老公一見她快受不住就會勸她快拿無薪假期出外悠轉一趟,我說大姐你這老公對你挺不錯啊,大姐露出甜密的笑容道:“是啊,咱們家這個啊,是真的很不錯!”大姐這趟來西藏走一個月,只帶了一個小背包,她瞪著我那45升的大背包(對要行走三個月的人來說,45升不算大了),說:“你這個大包裝的都是甚麼?衣服嗎?去旅行又不是時裝表演,這麼辛苦為啥?”我臉上一紅,急忙解釋:“不全是衣服,裡面有葯,急救用品,睡袋,充電器等等...等等...”大姐也就不說甚麼了,不過我覺著她射向我那背包的眼神總有這麼一點兒不以為然,便暗暗發誓,下次出行必須再精簡,要帶個小一點的背包!


途經最高海拔:5045米
宿:八宿郵電招待所,15元/人,公廁, 不能洗澡,地方骯,打水麻煩
行:芒康-邦達:加開的班車 112元。邦達-八宿:小面包車,坐滿六人開車,50元/人


Images captions (from top to bottom):

1. As usual, the bus was overloaded, and broke down along the way. But no worries, the Chinese drivers are renowned for their amazing automobile repair skills. There are absolutely no problems they cannot solved and no damage they cannot fix , on the scene and with minimal equipment, and may I add, within one hour at most!

In fact, I welcome these kind of breaks for I get to stretch my limbs, go to toilet, take pictures, and enjoy the scenery.

2. another village along 瀾滄江

3. one of the many gorges along 瀾滄江

4. Signs put up by the authorities to warn drivers against bad road conditions

5. road winds along the hill side

6. beautiful sunset

7,8. This is the worse lodge I had stayed for my entire 3 month journey (excluding those nights on the Himalaya Annapurna circuit). The toilet and sink was on the other side of the parking area with no lights. The bed looked quite filthy and the plank wall had holes and you can literally peek on your neighbors, not to mention hearing their entire conversation. The cost is 10 CNY (US$1.3) per bed. With this price, one can definitely find better lodging in this town.