壯麗凶險瀾滄江    Day 4

 
 
 
 
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9月8日 鹽井-芒康

從鹽井到芒康不過一百一十多公里,班車竟需走上八個多小時。其實今天這趟班車算是走得十分順利了,天氣清朗,無風無雨,車子雖然嚴重超載,卻竟然一呔到尾, 無壞車無爆輪!中間也只遇上兩起陷車,其中一次陷的是修路的大泥頭車,一個輪子陷進泥裏。我們的班車一到,立刻多了十多個壯丁幫忙,發揮我國最大的優勢- 靈活變通地以群眾的熱情力量代替冷冰冰的機器,三兩下子就把泥頭車拉出來了!我國勞動人民外帶一個瑞士老外(關於這瑞士人以後還會提及)再一次獲得巨大的勝利!

鹽井到芒康一段路差不多全程沿著瀾滄江溯江而上。一百一十多公里山路全以山石勉強湊合而成,路狹彎險是家常便飯,最可怕的是路旁峭壁的山石鬆動,就算在風和日麗的日子裡,石塊也會偶然飛脫,更別說雨季時節,山石流會沖跨路段,滾石會把車砸下洶湧的瀾滄江去。這段險路該是滇藏/川藏公路中繼通麥天險後最危險的路段了,因此政府也投入了大量人力去修補山路。所謂大量人力,就是差不多每幾百米就有一隊修路工人在工作,大部份都是當地的藏民,大概農閑時就會過來掙點苦力錢。他們用簡單的鋤頭,泥鏟等工具把掉到路上的大石打爛成約一尺見方的細塊,和以泥灰,在道路山壁那一邊疊砌一堵擋土牆。

我很佩服這學種就地取材抗災的創意,不過一路看到不少泥石流的威力,因此很懷疑這些粗製擋土牆的耐力。自有茶馬古道兩千年以來,走在這條道上的驛者從來未能安心過,不過我們也別驕傲地妄想把橫斷山完全征服,這樣一個巨大的天然屏障放在那兒,其目的除了是刺激人類克服困難的創意,更是要讓人對大自然的創造者生出敬畏,認識自己的渺少與有限。

晚上到達芒康後回想今天的路程,印象最深刻的倒非嚴峻的路況,而是瀾滄江在兩山夾峙下沖峰奪彎的澎湃氣象。我未去過長江三峽,不過我相信瀾滄江除了在歷史文化底氣上輸長江三峽一籌外,其風光氣勢卻要遠勝過之!


宿:某招待所,15元/人,三人間,公廁,不能洗澡
行:班車50元


Images captions (from top to bottom):

1. Travel companions

2. village along 瀾滄江

3. road work 365 days a year

4. The big orange truck got stuck in the mud, blocking traffic from both ways for over an hour. Then our bus, carrying 15+ men, came to rescue. Every male passenger on the bus got off to help and within 5 minutes, the truck was pulled out. No machines were involved in solving this problem. Victory of man power over machines :)
Notice the white guy on the right, he smuggled into Tibet without any permits (fyi, foreigners are required to pay big bucks to get permits to travel to Tibet). I bumped into him several times during my 3 month journey, one time at an internet cafe in Kathmandu, Nepal! When I saw him in Lhasa, he told me that he hid at the back of a truck loaded with pigs for 3 days to avoid the checkpoints! Check out his adventure here.

5. Harvest