揭開滇藏線的序幕    Day 3

 
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9月7日 飛來寺(滇) - 鹽井(藏)

早上八時半攔下了一部德欽發往鹽井的大巴,與我一起擠上這趟已經滿座的班車尚有三條自助遊驢子,行李都給扛上車頂。

車子在海拔三千多米跑了一個多小時,從窗外望去白霧迷漓,能見度不過20米左右,在大山裡繞來繞去,心提得老高。過了一段時間,覺得周圍清朗起來,原來已下降到二千多米,往窗外看去,只見一水擠在兩大山之間奔馳過來,水色泥黃,就是瀾滄江了!我心裡好興奮; 瀾滄江,金沙江,怒江,這三江并流的橫斷山脈是一處比西藏更神祕更少人接觸的地方。

“橫斷山”這三個字本身就帶著無窮魔力: 是天神橫刀把山劈斷,好讓三條大水平排過路嗎?每次看關於三江并流的資料時,我總會念叨著“橫斷山”三個字,心裡充滿暇想。現在親眼看到三江之一的瀾滄江,也看到了夾江兩旁陡峭的山體,算是感受到一點兒橫斷山的威風。

不多久,車子下降到離江面約二十米,海拔二千二百米,接下來幾小時直至鹽井,車都是沿著瀾滄江行走。江的對岸離江面幾十米處隱約見到一條棧道,其寬只夠人或牲畜走,我心裡一動,敢情是以前的茶馬古道?在未修公路之前,人們都只能賴著 這麼窄窄的棧道來往滇藏做買賣,看著這條貿易命脈被泥石流沖斷了好幾段,心忖茶馬古道走得可真艱難啊!

下午二時半進入西藏,到達鹽井,去芒康的車每天只有早上一班,我與另外三驢商量片刻,決定先住下,看明天能不能坐上班車。

我們四驢分別是來自寶島的佩與菁,及在北大唸醫的志輝,由於跑的線大致相同(其實走滇藏或川藏線的驢們想經停的地方大都差不多),便約定一同上路停宿直至然烏。對我來說有伴同行心裡踏實多了,起碼住進招待所(共用廁浴)也不害怕了,因為同伴都在隔壁房間。

我們四人,三人是“窮”學生,一人是失業“青”年,吃住都省,午飯晚飯拼一頓吃了。問本地人鹽井天主教堂多遠,說走路半小時就到,誰知走了半小時,我們才到達一處可遠眺教堂的路口,要去到教堂門口還要轉過兩個山坳,怕不要個多小時? 唉,無論漢民藏民,只要是中國人,對時間的準確性似乎總沒有慨念,半個小時?意思是起碼翻一翻,“前邊就是”等於多走一會至幾天不等!

返回招待所後我忙著洗衣服,水喉在走廊,每人一個塑料盤子,走廊的窗多開著,衣服晾一會就乾,情景有點像香港以前徙置區,不過比較乾淨就是了。我就著盤子用半瓶熱開水洗了頭和腳。我平生頭一次這樣子搞衛生,不過幹起來挺順利的,算是成功超越了一個限制吧!


宿:電信招待所:10元/床,公廁,不能洗澡
行:過路班車:40元


Images captions (from top to bottom):

1. Early in the morning I stood by the road side waiting for this bus to pass. There is only one bus per day, if weather permits, crossing the Yunan-Tibet border, and it is usually full by the time it leaves the departure town - Deqin, 10km away. I was luck that day, and so were 3 other backpackers, to be able to get on and find a proper seat.

2. The overloaded bus broke down only once during the 8 hour ride, not bad at all!

3. Gorges on the Tibet frontier (瀾滄江)

4. After about 8 hours of bumpy ride, the bus reached its final destination: Yangjing (鹽井). Yangjing is the first town after crossing the Yunan/Tibet border.

5. A typical Tibetan house in eastern Tibet

6. It was only 4pm when we arrived, so I decided to check out the town, and I saw this Catholic church (鹽井天主教堂) from a distance. This church is said to be the only functional Catholic church on Tibet soil.

7. Corridor scene of the lodge I stayed at Yanjing

8. My room for the night, that's all the furnitures the room has, no attached bathroom or sink. It costs CNY 20 , about US$2.5.